navigate_nextnavigate_nextnavigate_beforeUpper Kahiltna
The Upper Glacier, or Upper Kahiltna, is a stretch that starts above 7,800' Camp as a long, moderately steep climb. Ski Hill is named for the frequent tracks that adorn the slope from those ascending (and descending) the mountain on skis. It's also the first major uphill that you’ll encounter on your expedition, so get acquainted with your risers on your snowshoes and don’t be afraid to use them.
There is an icefall in the center of Ski Hill with crevasses that can extend out across the glacier. The route goes up to the climber's right of the icefall. There are crevasses on Ski Hill, so treat it with respect.
navigate_nextnavigate_beforeUpper Glacier Camps
Some teams may elect to camp at 9,500'-9,800' on the upper Kahiltna, below Kahiltna Pass, where the route bends to make the final ascent to 11,000' Camp. While this breaks up your ascent significantly, this zone is often swamped in a sea of clouds streaming over Kahiltna Pass or just settled in across the Upper Glacier. The video in the frame is shot looking down on the Upper Kahiltna from 11,000'.
If you have a compelling reason to camp here , go for it. But know that this stretch can be challenging. Often you are in low visibility conditions, when it can be crystal clear at 11,000' Camp, just a couple hours above you.
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Strong teams might carry loads from 7,800' Camp all the way to 11,000 Camp, but most mortals will cache somewhere below Kahiltna Pass. 10,200' is a good zone for which to aim.
If you are navigating in a whiteout at this point, take care not to stray too far east on the glacier, unless you are certain you are at or above 10,200'. There are some seracs that threaten the east edge of the Kahiltna, just before it turns up to the basin of 11,000'.
Mark your cache well and note its position on your GPS. Consider caching your shovels on top, so you can grab them when you pass by en route to the next camp, lightening your load a bit up Ski Hill.
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Once you top out Ski Hill, the Upper Kahiltna is relatively nondescript. As long as you stay in the climber's center or center left, you'll avoid the chief hazards of this stretch. On the west side of the Kahiltna, below Kahiltna Dome, there are some whopper crevasses, and along the eastern edge, you'll have a series of serac hazards.
Climbers descending in a whiteout often drop down from 11,000' and keep heading east across the glacier, often without realizing it. GPS can really help and the route from Kahiltna Pass to Ski Hill is almost due south.