Guide Tips

Pee Bottle 101

By Todd Rutledge This might get me blackballed from the guiding profession for revealing this trade secret, but here you go:  Pee Bottle 101. (Spoiler alert! The following mostly pertains to the male readership, as I don’t have any experience using other techniques, but I will throw out some suggestions for the ladies.) The key…

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Probing for Crevasses on Glaciers and at Camps

By Ashley Klassen One of the greatest challenges of crossing glaciated terrain is navigating its crevasses. There are several methods to employ in order to facilitate a safe crossing. You should be aware of areas of a glacier that are more likely to have crevasses than others, such as the sides of the glacier, near…

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Survival Is Your Own Responsibility

By Daryl R. Miller Alaska has long been regarded as the last frontier, offering some of the most remote and rugged mountains in the world. The quest for solitude and adventure lures thousands of climbers from around the world into the backcountry each year to test their skills and wilderness experience. Unfortunately, every year numerous…

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The Rest Step – Climbing “One Step at a Time”

What is the rest step? Simply put, the rest step is speed control. While climbing at altitude, on steep slopes, with a baby whale strapped to the back, it is difficult to go slow enough to maintain an efficient and aerobic pace. At several points you will probably hear your guides put a lot of stress in going steady, keeping the breathing under control and maintaining that efficient mountaineers’ pace that makes it possible for us mere mortals to climb one of the world’s great mountains like Denali. And one of that keys of that efficient pace is the rest step.

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Climber & Team Communication

An expedition is a team effort and teams are strongest when there is clear, candid communication among all team members. Be honest with one another, even about little things. Often, minor situations become crises that otherwise could have been mediated early on, if only someone else knew about them.

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